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Lhotse Middle Expedition in Nepal -
Lhotse Middle Expedition in Nepal -
Mount Lhotse Middle Expedition Base Camp
Lhotse Middle 8,413m. Expedition
Trip Fact
Mount Lhotse Middle highest un-climbed subsidiary peak in the world, close to Lhotse main, the 4th highest peak of the world, to the west and Lhotse Shar the only slightly lower east peak of Lhotse to the east. Both other peaks have already been climbed. The Lhotse group lies directly to the south of Everest. Several expeditions have tried to climb Lhotse middle, but unsuccessfully. One of the problems is the fact that there are no ridges leading directly to the summit so first Lhotse main or, Lhotse Shar have to be tackled. Mt. Lhotse Middle remained, for a long time, its first ascent was made by Eugeny Vinogradsky, Sergei Timofeev, Alexei Bolotov and Petr Kuznetsov of a Russian expedition on May 23, 2001 at 03:00 pm. The Lhotse climbing standard route follows the same path as Everest's South Col route up to the Yellow Band beyond Camp 3. After the Yellow Band the routes diverge with climbers bound for Everest taking a left over the Geneva Spur up to the South Col, while Lhotse climbers take a right further up the Lhotse face. The last part to the summit leads through a narrow couloir until the Lhotse main peak is reached.
This Lhotse Middle expedition requires a high level of climbing proficiency on steep, exposed and technical skill and altitude experience is mandatory. It's an ideal climb designed for previous our Everest climbers or those who have tested climbs at 7000m. +. All members will participate in a training session at base camp to make sure we are all on the same page with safety protocol and technical skills. To shorten the time spent in the ice fall in gaining acclimatization needed to ascend safely we test ourselves on higher objectives in the area. We provide a Camp 1 at but it is mainly used as stopover and emergency camp if needed. The plan will be for everyone to be prepared enough to move directly to Camp 2 (6,400m.), spend two nights and then move up to Camp 3 (7,200m.) on the Lhotse Face. We'll spend one night here before descending back to Camp 2 then the next day back to Base Camp where we will wait till the route has been established and camp provisions are in place for the summit push.
- If you have your own private group or team, please e-mail us to know the price and details of expedition.
- If you are alone and looking for a group to join then visit our fix-departure expedition information.
Detail Itinerary
Departure Detail
Spring Season:
Kathmandu Arrival Date: April 07, 2025
Expedition Fixed Departure Date: April 10, 2025
Autumn Season:
Kathmandu Arrival Date: September 07, 2025
Expedition Fixed Departure Date: September 10, 2025
Hiring High Altitude Climbing Sherpa (Guide): USD 3000 Per Sherpa (If required by Member)
Note:
- We will provide you the expedition cost as per your size of group or, as per your requirement for the expedition service. We request you to e-mail us or, use "Book Expedition" form for send us your message.
- Above given cost does not include the climbing Sherpa’s food and fuel, tents, climbing gears and summit bonus above advance base camp.
- Hiring a high altitude Sherpa does cost includes equipment allowances, daily wages, food and fuel up to base camp, insurance, Kathmandu/Lukla/Kathmandu and sleeping tents at BC etc.
Summit Bonus: Camp 8000m. = USD 500 and over 8000m. to summit= USD 500 = 1000 USD extra payable for climbing Sherpa on the spot.
Service Includes up to Base Camp:
- All land transportation by Car, Van or Toyota Hiace (Airport/Hotel/Airport, expedition pick up and drop).
- 5 Nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu at 3 star Hotel on Bed & Breakfast plan (before and after expedition).
- Scheduled flight Kathmandu/Lukla/Kathmandu for member, Liaison officer and Expedition staffs.
- Transport of food supply and expedition equipments to Base Camp and back.
- Full board in lodges during trekking to base camp and back.
- Base Camp single sleeping tent and Mattress for each member, Base Camp staffs and Liaison officer.
- All kitchen tent, store tent, dining tents, toilet tent, table, chairs and cooking utensils for Base Camp.
- Food and fuel at Base Camp.
- Service of Government Liaison officer.
- Service of cook and kitchen boy at Base Camp.
- Equipments allowance, daily wages of cook, kitchen boys and Liaison officer.
- Insurance of cook, kitchen boy, Liaison officer and porters.
- Expedition Permit fee of Mt. Lhotse East or Middle.
- Khumbu area entrance and Sagarmatha National Park entrance fee.
- Per Person 50 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels allowed for expedition till Base Camp.
- Per Person 40 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels is allowed for returned to Kathmandu.
- 2 Expedition duffel bag or Barrel for each member.
- Generator or Solar panel at Base Camp for light and charging.
- Sat Phone available at Base Camp, but nominal charge for use.
- Emergency medical Oxygen bottle with Mask and regulator at Base Camp.
- Visa extension fee.
- Garbage deposit fees.
- Official tax and agency service charge.
Service does not include:
- International airfare from/to your country.
- Nepal entry visa fee (can be obtained at the airport at upon arrival).
- Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
- Hotel after 5 night stay in Kathmandu.
- Personal climbing gear and equipment above Base Camp.
- High Tents above Base Camp.
- High altitude food and fuel above Base Camp.
- Oxygen bottle with Mask and regulator (will be provided as per request).
- Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation and lost luggage.
- Applicable permit fees and customs charges, etc. for SAT phone, Walkie Talkies, communication equipment and commercial filming.
- International airport departure tax at Kathmandu Airport.
- Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone etc.
- Tips and summit bonus.
Spring Itinerary
Hotel/Lodges/Camping
45 Days Trek/Climbing
Food: Included except main meals in Kathmandu
Accommodation: 5 Nights Kathmandu and 39 Nights Lodges/Camping
Recommended Season: Spring & Autumn
07 April Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport (1,350m.), meet our staff then transfer to Hotel.
08 April Day 02: Preparation for Expedition.
09 April Day 03: Official work for expedition and briefing at Ministry of Tourism.
10 April Day 04: Flight to Lukla (2,860m.) then trek to Phakding (2,622m.).
11 April Day 05: Phakding – Namche Bazar (3,440m.).
12 April Day 06: Rest day for acclimatization and hiking around.
13 April Day 07: Namche Bazar – Tengboche (3,867m.).
14 April Day 08: Tengboche – Dingboche (4,343m.).
15 April Day 09: Dingboche – Labuche (4,915m.).
16 April Day 10: Lobuche – Everest Base Camp (5,380m.).
17 April- 13 May Day 11-37: Climbing Period for Mount Lhotse East (Lhotse Middle 8,413m.).
14 May Day 38: Cleaning up Base Camp and backpack.
15 May Day 39: Trek back to Pheriche (4,343m.).
16 May Day 40: Pheriche – Tengboche (3,837m.).
17 May Day 41: Tengboche – Namche Bazar (3,440m.).
18 May Day 42: Namche Bazar – Lukla and transfer to Teahouse Lodge.
19 May Day 43: Fly back to Kathmandu then transfer to Hotel.
20 May Day 44: Kathmandu free for D-briefing and rest, farewell dinner at evening.
21 May Day 45: Last minute, transfer to airport for your onward journey.
Autumn Itinerary
Hotel/Lodges/Camping
45 Days Trek/Climbing
Food: Included except main meals in Kathmandu
Accommodation: 5 Nights Kathmandu and 39 Nights Lodges/Camping
Recommended Season: Spring & Autumn
07 September Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport (1,350m.), meet our staff then transfer to Hotel.
08 September Day 02: Preparation for Expedition.
09 September Day 03: Official work for expedition and briefing at Ministry of Tourism.
10 September Day 04: Flight to Lukla (2,860m.) then trek to Phakding (2,622m.).
11 September Day 05: Phakding – Namche Bazar (3,440m.).
12 September Day 06: Rest day for acclimatization and Hiking around.
13 September Day 07: Namche Bazar – Tengboche (3,867m.).
14 September Day 08: Tengboche – Dingboche (4,343m.).
15 September Day 09: Dingboche – Labuche (4,915m.).
16 September Day 10: Lobuche – Everest Base Camp (5,380m.).
17 Sept. - 13 Oct. Day 11-37: Climbing Period for Mount Lhotse East (Middle 8,413m.).
14 October Day 38: Cleaning up Base Camp and backpack.
15 October Day 39: Trek back to Pheriche (4,343m.).
16 October Day 40: Pheriche – Tengboche (3,837m.).
17 October Day 41: Tengboche – Namche Bazar (3,440m.).
18 October Day 42: Namche Bazar – Lukla and transfer to Teahouse Lodge.
19 October Day 43: Fly back to Kathmandu then transfer to Hotel.
20 October Day 44: Kathmandu free for D-briefing and rest, farewell dinner at evening.
21 October Day 45: Last minute, transfer to airport for your onward journey.
Mountain Info
Location: Asia, Nepal
Himalayan Range: Mahalangur Himal
Height: 8,413m. - (27,657ft)
Latitude: 27º 57’ 42” N
Longitude: 86º 56’ 00” E
Trip Duration: 45 Days
Normal Ascent Route: West Face, South Face
First Ascent: May 23, 2001 by Eugeny Vinogradsky, Sergei Timofeev, Alexei Bolotov and Petr Kuznetsov of a Russian expedition.
Easiest Route: Snow/ice/glacier climb
Grade: Mountaineering
Caravan Route: Kathmandu-Lukla-Namche Bazar -Tengboche-Lobuche-Gorakshep-Lhotse Base Camp-Lukla Bazar-Kathmandu
Trip Information
- Nepal 8000m. Climbing Preparations
- Nepal Insurance Discussion
- Nepal Expedition Terms & Conditions
- Peak Climbing & Expedition Grade
- Personal Climbing Gear List for up to Summit
- Equipment Rental or Purchase Price
- Expedition Equipments Check List
- Expedition Garbage Information
- Nepal Expedition Grade
- Royalty for Mountain Peaks
- Nepal Visa & Expedition Permit Information
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