Kyazo Ri Peak Expedition-Khumbu-Nepal
Kyazo Ri Peak Climbing
Kyazo Ri Peak Climbing, Khumbu Region, Nepal
Mt. Everest and Ama Dablam Views from Namche Bazar

Kyazo Ri Peak 6,151m. Climbing

Trip Fact

Trip Duration 21 Days

Destination Nepal

Trip Grade Mountaineering

Activity Peak Climbing

Max. Altitude 6151m. - 20180ft.

Accomodation Lodge + Camping

Transportation By Air

Meals Breakfast + Lunch + Dinner

Best Season Spring & Autumn

Minimum Pax 2 Person

More Facts Less Facts

Kyazo Ri peak is located in the Khumbu Himal, running just north side of Namche Bazar, is a long line of peaks continuing all the way to Cho Oyu on the Nepalese-Tibetan border. With the Thame valley to the west and the Gokyo valley to the east the (6151m. - 20180ft.) high Kyazo Ri (Kyajo Ri) is the highest summit on the southern part of this ridge. Kyajo Ri Peak height (6,151m. - Kyazo Ri) officially fixed by the Nepal Mountaineering Association.

History:
The peak was opened to climbing by the Nepalese Ministry of Tourism, in 2002 and the first (official) ascent was made that year by a Franco/British team. They approached from Machhermo, traversed the Kyazo Glacier and climbed via the Southwest Ridge. The same route was repeated in 2003 by a French team as an acclimatization outing in preparation for the difficult North Face of Machharmo peak, which they then climbed (Bonfire of the Vanities). Also in 2003, a Dutch team climbed the Southwest Ridge route after failing on an attempt of the east face. In 2005 an American team climbed the more difficult Southeast Ridge establishing only the second route on the peak. There have been a few other attempts on the mountain – an Australian in 2005 and an American in the spring of 2006, a Korean (perhaps), and possibly others.

Difficulty:
There is significant technical climbing at high altitude. Summit day is very long and tiring. The approach trek to base Camp is not overly difficult and is suitable for experienced off-trail hikers in good condition. In difficulty it is probably comparable to the Cho La route, or to treks that cross the Renjo La, and perhaps a bit harder than the Kala Patar trek near Everest Base Camp.

Base Camp to Camp - 1 is a long way, and a hard day over rough, but non-technical terrain. Camp 2 is not so far from Camp 1 but the intervening climbing is occasionally over difficult tall us and giant boulders.

From Camp - 2 we are able to move together a short way, then soon begin belayed climbing. We climb about 12 pitches of steep snow and ice, to perhaps 65° in steepness for one or two pitches just below the summit. We will belay, lower and rappel the same route on descent. Overall, the difficulty is comparable to the summit day on Ama Dablam. Kyazo Ri is significantly harder physically and technically than Lobuche West - East or Island Peak.

Detail Itinerary

Peak Climbing Cost Includes:

Land transportation by Car, Van, Hiace or, tourist Bus (Airport/Hotel/Airport, trekking pick up and drop).
4 Night’s Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu at Bed and breakfast basis.
3 Major meals; B/L/D (by Lodge menu) and accommodation at best available teahouse lodge during the trek en-route.
Full board basis services while in Kyazo Ri Peak in tented camp.
All kitchen equipments; kitchen tent, dining tent, toilet tent at the Base Camp.
1 Trekking + Climbing guide, Cook, Kitchen boys and necessary Porter. (1 Porter between two member)
Equipment charges for climbing guide.
Life insurance for all support crews and their daily wages.
Per member 15 Kg. luggage allow while in the trekking.
Peak Permit, Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality entrance fees, Sagarmatha National Park permit and garbage deposit.
Snow bars and enough rope for the climbing as well as tented camp while on climbing to Kyazo Ri Peak.
Air Ticket: Kathmandu/Lukla/Kathmandu with domestic airport tax and cargo fees.
Medical Kit Box for Nepali support crews.
All official taxes and service charge.

Peak Climbing Cost Doesn’t Include:

Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
Airfare from/to your country.
Nepal entry visa fee. (Can be obtained at the airport upon arrival).
Hotel after 5 nights stay in Kathmandu.
Drinks except tea and coffee. (Hot water, mineral water and cold drinks is not included)
Personal climbing gear and equipment above Base Camp.
Walki -Takie permit & Satellite phone permit.
Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical and emergency evacuation.
Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone, etc.
International airport departure tax.
Tips and climbing bonus.

Spring Itinerary

Expedition Itinerary: A
Caravan Route: Lukla-Namche Bazar-Gokyo Lake-Kyazo Ri Peak Base Camp

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport (1,350m.), meet our staff then transfers to Hotel.
Day 02: Free day for preparation and official briefing.
Day 03: Fly to Lukla (2,800m.) and trek to Phakding (2,652m.) Lodge.
Day 04: Phakding - Namche Bazar (3,440 m.-11,283 ft): 5-6 hrs.
Day 05: Namche Bazar acclimatization.
Day 06: Namche Bazar - Dole (4,110 m.-13,152 ft): 5-6 hrs.
Day 07: Dole - Machhermo (4,470 m.-14,663 ft): 4-5 hrs.
Day 08: Machharmo - Gokyo (4,800m.-15,744 ft): 3-4 hrs.
Day 09: Gokyo-Lungden (4,600m.-15,088ft, Renjo-La Pass (5,435.- 17,827ft.)
Day 10: Trek down to Thame and Mende (3736 m.-12,255 ft): 5-6 hrs.
Day 11: Trek to Kyazo Ri Base Camp (4550m.-14925 ft): 5-6 hrs.
Day 12: Preparation day at Base Camp.
Day 13: Trek to Camp I (5,200m.-17056 ft): 4-5 hrs
Day 14: Trek to Camp II (5,700m.-18696 ft): 5-6 hrs
Day 15: Summit Kyazo Ri (6151m.) and back to Camp 2: 10-12 hrs.
Day 16: Contingency day if incase of bad weather.
Day 17: Kyazo Ri Base Camp - Namche Bazar. 7 hrs.
Day 18: Namche Bazar – Lukla and transfer to Tea House Lodge.
Day 19: Fly to Kathmandu then transfer to Hotel.
Day 20: Kathmandu free and farewell dinner.
Day 21: Last minute, transfers to airport for your onward journey.

Optional - Expedition Itinerary: B
Caravan Route: Lukla-Namche Bazar-Thame-Mende-Kyazo Ri Base Camp

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport (1,350m.), meet our staff then transfers to Hotel.
Day 02: Free day for preparation and official briefing.
Day 03: Fly to Lukla (2,800m.), trek to Phakding, (2,652m.) Lodge.
Day 04: Phakding – Namche Bazar, (3,440m.)
Day 05: Acclimatization and ascent to Everest View Hotel.
Day 06: Namche Bazar – Thame (3,800m.)
Day 07: Thame - Mende, (3,740m.- 12,270ft).
Day 08: Mende- Kyazo Ri Peak Base Camp (4,550m.-14,900ft).
Day 09: Preparation day at Base Camp.
Day 10 -13: Set up High Camp at (5,350m. - 17,550ft.). climbing Period.
Day 14: Ascent to Kyazo Ri Peak (6,151m.) summit and return to Base Camp
Day 15: Clean the Base Camp and trek back to Namche Bazar.
Day 16: Namche Bazar – Lukla and transfer to Tea House Lodge.
Day 17: Fly to Kathmandu and transfer to Hotel.
Day 18: Kathmandu free and farewell dinner.
Day 19: Last minute, transfers to airport for your onward journey.

Autumn Itinerary

Expedition Itinerary: A
Caravan Route: Lukla-Namche Bazar-Gokyo Lake-Kyazo Ri Peak Base Camp

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport (1,350m.), meet our staff then transfers to Hotel..
Day 02: Free day for preparation and official briefing.
Day 03: Fly to Lukla (2,800m.) and trek to Phakding (2,652m.) Lodge.
Day 04: Phakding - Namche Bazar (3,440 m.-11,283 ft): 5-6 hrs.
Day 05: Namche Bazar acclimatization.
Day 06: Namche Bazar - Dole (4,110 m.-13,152 ft): 5-6 hrs.
Day 07: Dole - Machhermo (4,470 m.-14,663 ft): 4-5 hrs.
Day 08: Machharmo - Gokyo (4,800m.-15,744 ft): 3-4 hrs.
Day 09: Gokyo-Lungden (4,600m.-15,088ft, Renjo-La Pass (5,435.- 17,827ft.)
Day 10: Trek down to Thame and Mende (3,736 m.-12,255 ft): 5-6 hrs.
Day 11: Trek to Kyazo Ri Base Camp (4,550m.-14925 ft): 5-6 hrs.
Day 12: Preparation day at Base Camp.
Day 13: Trek to Camp I (5,200m.-17056 ft): 4-5 hrs
Day 14: Trek to Camp II (5,700m.-18696 ft): 5-6 hrs
Day 15: Summit Kyazo Ri (6,151m.) and back to Camp 2: 10-12 hrs.
Day 16: Contingency day if incase of bad weather.
Day 17: Kyazo Ri Base Camp - Namche Bazar. 7 hrs.
Day 18: Namche Bazar – Lukla and transfer to Tea House Lodge.
Day 19: Fly to Kathmandu then transfer to Hotel.
Day 20: Kathmandu free and farewell dinner.
Day 21: Last minute, transfers to airport for your onward journey.

Optional - Expedition Itinerary: B
Caravan Route: Lukla-Namche Bazar-Thame-Mende-Kyazo Ri Base Camp

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Mountain Info

Location: Asia, Nepal
Trip Days: 19, 21 Days
Height: 6151m. - 20180ft.
Latitude: 27° 54′ 33″ N
Longitude: 86° 40′ 17″ O
Grade: Mountaineering
Normal Ascent Route: Normal
First Ascent: 2002 by Duncan Wilson and Vincent Marche/a Franco/British team
Easiest Route: Rock/Snow/ice climb
Group Size: Minimum 2 Person/Group Joining Basis/Private Group
Lodging Level: Hotel/Lodge/Camping
Accomodation: 4 Nights Kathmandu and 14 Nights Lodges/Camping - 4 Nights Kathmandu and 16 Nights Lodges/Camping
Food: Included B/L/D except main meals in Kathmandu
Best Seasons: Spring/Autumn
Caravan Route: Kathmandu - Lukla - Namche Bazar - Thame - Mende - Kyazo Ri Peak Base Camp - Namche Bazar - Lukla - Kathmandu

Trip Information

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