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Island Peak and Ama Dablam Expedition -
Island Peak Climbing and Ama Dablam Expedition -
Island Peak Climbing and Ama Dablam Expedition -
Island Peak Climbing and Ama Dablam Expedition -
Island Peak and Ama Dablam Expedition -
Island Peak and Ama Dablam Expedition - Khumbu Region
Island Peak 6,160m. and Ama Dablam 6,812m. Expedition
Trip Fact
It is named ‘Island Peak’ in 1952 due to its striking resemblance to a Island on a sea of ice, this mountain was renamed ‘Imje Tse’ in the early 80s. Its original name is more often used, however. First climbed by a team preparing for an Everest ascent in 1953, Island Peak has an impressive, highly glaciated West Face which rises from the Lhotse Glacier. In fact, the mountain extends from the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar and is separated only by a small col. Above this gap is the ridge leading to the summit. From base camp, we will ascend gradually a steep grassy slope and rocky steps to high camp. It is necessary to climb a steep, exposed 300' snow and ice ramp to the summit ridge; fixed ropes will be used at this point in an otherwise non-technical snow climb. We will negotiate a final tricky snow pitch before reaching the summit. From here stunning views of the surrounding mountains can be seen from the peak, including Mt. Nuptse, Lhotse, Cho Polu, Makalu, Ama Dablam and Baruntse at the south east.
Beside this another adventure is Ama Dablam has been considered the prettiest mountain in the world. High on her Southwest face hangs a glacier resembling a 'Dablam' - the sacred ornament box worn by ladies in the Sherpa community. It was this spectacular feature that got her the name "Ama Dablam". She lies alongside Everest in the heart of the Khumbu valley offering a superb diversions close up view of Mt Lhotse, Mt. Makalu, Mt. Cho Oyu and Mt. Everest. Ama Dablam expedition requires steep ice, rock and snow climbing. Normally, three camps are set in Ama Dablam climbing above the base camp (4,570m.), however, only two camps are used to spend the nights. The normal route for climbing is South-West Ridge. The ascent from Base Camp to camp 1st is considered one the difficult days of the expedition.
Experience Required: All climbers need to have good skills on rock and ice climbing and technically competent. On most parts of the routes there will be fixed rope, however, the climbers should posses skills of climbing through steep rock and hard compact ice. We follow the standard South West ridge route (normal route) to the top, as it is consider the safe route, free from the objective danger such as avalanche and so on. The route we follow begins at Lukla (2,850m.) and the initial days of the trek pass through the legendary Sherpa country up the spectacular high valley of the Khumbu region. Most of the route on the actual climbing is fixed with no icefall or glacier to negotiate, and most of it is concentrated on the crest of a ridge.
We have designed the itineraries to climb Island Peak 6,160 meter before go to Ama Dablam Expedition. It would be a good training and acclimatization to make your success to climb Mt. Ama Dablam.
- If you have your own private group or team, please e-mail us to know the price and details of expedition.
- If you are alone and looking for a group to join then visit our fix-departure expedition information.
Detail Itinerary
Departure Detail
Spring Season:
Kathmandu Arrival Date: March 14, 2025
Expedition Fixed Departure Date: March 17, 2025
Autumn Season:
Kathmandu Arrival Date: October 14, 2025
Expedition Fixed Departure Date: October 17, 2025
Extra Cost for High Altitude Climbing Sherpa: USD 1900 for group sharing basis (if required by client)
Note:
- We will provide you the expedition cost as per your size of group or, as per your requirement for the expedition service. We request you to e-mail us or, use "Book Expedition" form for send us your message.
- Above given cost does not include the climbing Sherpa’s food and fuel, tents, climbing gears and summit bonus above advance base camp.
- Hiring a high altitude Sherpa cost includes equipment allowances, daily wages, food and fuel up to base camp, insurance, flight to and from Kathmandu and sleeping tents at BC etc.
Summit Bonus: Island Peak 200 USD + Ama Dablam Camp 6000m. = USD 500 and over 6000m. to summit= USD 500 = 1300 USD extra payable for climbing Sherpa on the spot.
Service Include Upto Base Camp:
- All land transportation by Car, Van or, Toyota Hiace (Airport/Hotel/Airport, expedition pick up and drop).
- 5 Nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu at 3 star Hotel on Bed & Breakfast plan (before and after expedition).
- Scheduled flight Kathmandu/Lukla/Kathmandu for member, Liaison officer and Expedition staffs.
- Transport of food supply and expedition equipments to Base Camp and back.
- Full board in lodges during trekking to base camp and back, 3 meals: breakfast, lunch and dinner a day at bc.
- Base Camp single sleeping tent and Mattress for each member, BC staffs and Liaison officer.
- All kitchen tent, store tent, dining tents, toilet tent, table, chairs and cooking utensils for Base Camp.
- Fuel at Base Camp.
- Service of Government Liaison officer.
- Service of cook and kitchen boy at Base Camp.
- Equipments allowance, daily wages of cook, kitchen boys and Liaison officer.
- Insurance of cook, kitchen boy, Liaison officer and porters.
- Expedition Permit fee of Island Peak and Mt. Ama Dablam.
- Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality and Sagarmatha National Park entrance fee.
- Per Person 40 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels allowed for expedition till Base Camp.
- Per Person 30 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels is allowed for returned to Kathmandu.
- 2 Expedition duffel bag or barrel for each member.
- Generator or Solar panel at Base Camp for light and charging.
- Sat Phone available at Base Camp, but nominal charge for use.
- Emergency medical Oxygen bottle with Mask and regulator at Base Camp.
- Visa extension fee.
- Garbage deposit of both peaks.
- Agency service charge.
Service does not include:
- International airfare from/to your country.
- Nepal entry visa fee (can be obtained at the airport at upon arrival).
- Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
- Hotel after 5 night stay in Kathmandu.
- Personal climbing gear and equipment above Base Camp.
- High Tents above Base Camp.
- High altitude food and fuel above Base Camp.
- Oxygen bottle with Mask and regulator (will be provided as per request).
- Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation and lost luggage.
- Applicable permit fees and customs charges, etc. for SAT phone, Walkie-Talkies, Communication equipment and commercial filming.
- International airport departure tax at Kathmandu Airport.
- Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone etc.
- Tips and summit bonus.
Expedition service up to Summit:
- All land transportation by Car, Van or Toyota Hiace (Airport/Hotel/Airport, expedition pick up and drop).
- 5 Nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu at 3 star Hotel on Bed & Breakfast plan (before and after expedition).
- Scheduled flight Kathmandu/Lukla/Kathmandu for member, Liaison officer and Expedition staffs.
- Transport of food supply and expedition equipments to Base Camp and back.
- Full board in lodges during trekking to base camp and back, 3 meals: breakfast, lunch and dinner a day at bc.
- All kitchen tent, store tent, dining tents, toilet tent, table, chairs and cooking utensils for Base Camp.
- Base Camp single sleeping tent and Mattress for each member, Base Camp staffs and Liaison officer.
- Fuel at Base Camp.
- Service of cook and kitchen boy at Base Camp.
- Service of Government Liaison officer.
- Equipments allowance, wages of cook, kitchen boys and Liaison officer.
- Insurance of cook, kitchen boy, Liaison officer and porters.
- Expedition Permit fee of Island Peak and Mt. Ama Dablam.
- Per Person 40 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels allowed for expedition till Base Camp.
- Per Person 30 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels is allowed for returned to Kathmandu.
- Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality and Sagarmatha National Park entrance fee.
- One high altitude Sherpa per climber to carry all food and gear to higher camps. Also assist the member during climb and summit attempt.
- Common climbing equipment such as ropes, ice screws, ice bar, pitons, etc.
- High altitude food.
- High altitude fuel.
- High altitude tents.
- 2 Expedition duffel bag or barrel for each member.
- Generator or, Solar panel at Base Camp for light and charging.
- Sat Phone available at Base Camp, but nominal charge for use.
- Emergency medical Oxygen bottle with Mask and regulator at Base Camp.
- Visa extension fee
- Garbage deposit for both peaks.
- Agency service charge.
Service does not include:
- International airfare from/to your country.
- Nepal entry visa fee (can be obtained at the airport at upon arrival).
- Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
- Hotel after 5 night stay in Kathmandu.
- Personal climbing gear and equipment above Base Camp.
- High Tents above Base Camp.
- High altitude food and fuel above Base Camp.
- Oxygen bottle with Mask and regulator (will be provided as per request).
- Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation and lost luggage.
- Applicable permit fees and customs charges, etc. for SAT phone, Walkie-Talkies, Communication equipment and commercial filming.
- International airport departure tax at Kathmandu Airport.
- Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone etc.
- Tips and summit bonus.
Spring Itinerary
Hotel/Lodges/Camping
35 Days Trek/Climbing
Food: Included except main meals in Kathmandu
Accommodation: 5 Nights Kathmandu and 29 Nights Tea-house Lodges/Camping
Recommended Season: Spring, Autumn & Winter
14 March Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu airport (1,350m.), meet our staff then transfers to Hotel.
15 March Day 02: Free day in Kathmandu.
16 March Day 03: Official work for expedition and briefing at Ministry of Tourism.
17 March Day 04: Fly to Lukla (2,800m.) and trek to Phakding (2,622m.).
18 March Day 05: Phakding – Namche Bazar (3,440m.).
19 March Day 06: Namche Bazar Acclimatization.
20 March Day 07: Namche –Tengboche (3,867m.).
21 March Day 08: Tengboche – Dingboche (4,343m.).
22 March Day 09: Dingboche – Island Peak Base Camp (5,087m.).
23 March Day 10: Island Peak high Camp (5,087m.).
24 March Day 11: Island Peak (6,160m.) Summit and back to Chhukung (4,720m.).
25 March Day 12: Chhukung trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp (4,600m.).
26 March - 10 April Day 13-28: Climbing period for Mt. Ama Dablam (6,812m.- 22,349 ft).
11 April Day 29: Reserve day.
12 April Day 30: Trek back to Tengboche.
13 April Day 31: Tengboche – Manjo.
14 April Day 32: Manjo – Lukla then transfer to teahouse Lodge.
15 April Day 33: Lukla – Kathmandu by flight then transfers to Hotel.
16 April Day 34: Kathmandu free for D-briefing and rest, farewell dinner at evening.
17 April Day 35: Last minute, transfer to airport for onward journey.
Autumn Itinerary
Hotel/Lodges/Camping
35 Days Trek/Climbing
Food: Included except main meals in Kathmandu
Accommodation: 5 Nights Kathmandu, 29 Nights Lodges/Camping
Recommended Season: Spring, Autumn and Winter
14 October Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport (1,350m.), meet our staff then transfers to Hotel.
15 October Day 02: Free day in Kathmandu.
16 October Day 03: Official work for expedition and briefing at Ministry of Tourism.
17 October Day 04: Fly to Lukla (2,800m.) and trek to Phakding (2,622m.)/Monjo.
18 October Day 05: Phakding/Monjo – Namche Bazar (3,440m.).
19 October Day 06: Namche Bazar Acclimatization.
20 October Day 07: Namche –Tengboche (3,867m.).
21 October Day 08: Tengboche – Dingboche (4,343m.).
22 October Day 09: Dingboche – Island Peak Base camp (5,087m.).
23 October Day 10: Island Peak high Camp (5,087m.).
24 October Day 11: Island Peak (6,160m.) Summit and back to Chhukung (4,720m.).
25 October Day 12: Chhukung trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp (4,600m.).
26 Oct. -10 Nov. Day 13-28: Climbing period for Mt. Ama Dablam (6,812m.).
11 November Day 29: Reserve day.
12 November Day 30: Trek back to Tengboche.
13 November Day 31: Tengboche – Manjo.
14 November Day 32: Manjo – Lukla then transfer to teahouse Lodge.
15 November Day 33: Lukla – Kathmandu by flight then transfers to Hotel.
16 November Day 34: Kathmandu free for D-briefing and rest, farewell dinner at evening.
17 November Day 35: Last minute, transfer to airport for onward journey.
Mountain Info
Khumbu Himal
Height: Island Peak (6,160m. - 20,305 ft) and Ama Dablam (6,812m. - 22,349 ft)
Latitude: 27°55′21″N - 27º 51’ 42”. N
Longitude: 86°56′10″E - 86º 51’ 50”. E
Trip Duration: 35 Days
Normal Ascent Route: Normal route.
Grade: Mountaineering
Caravan Route: Lukla Namche-Tengboche-Island Peak-Ama Dablam BC
Trip Information
- Nepal Expedition Terms & Conditions
- Personal Climbing Gear List for up to Summit
- Equipment Rental or Purchase Price
- Expedition Equipments Check List
- Expedition Garbage Information
- Nepal Expedition Grade
- Royalty for Mountain Peaks
- Nepal Visa & Expedition Permit Information
- Nepal 8000m. Climbing Preparations
- Nepal Insurance Discussion
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