Mount Ama Dablam has been considered the prettiest mountain in the world. High on her Southwest face hangs a glacier resembling a 'Dablam' - the sacred ornament box worn by ladies in the Sherpa community. It was this spectacular feature that got her the name "Ama Dablam". She lies alongside Everest in the heart of the Khumbu valley offering a superb diversions close up view of Mt. Everest and Mt Lhotse is the north, Mt. Makalu in the east and Mt. Cho Oyu is in west. Normally, three camps are set in Ama Dablam climbing above the base camp (4,570m), however, only two camps are used to spend the nights. The normal route for climbing is South-West Ridge. The ascent from Base Camp to camp 1st is considered one the difficult days of the expedition.
Mt. Pumori expedition Base camp will be set up at about 5,300m. We climb through the glaciers for approximately 4 hours and reach Camp 1 at 5,700m. From Camp 1, we climb 480m. on the face with 40 to 60 degrees slope and pass through a snow wall to reach camp 2 at 6,200 meter on a narrow ridge. From camp 2, we climb approximately 450 meter through ice with 30-60 degrees slopes passing through ice walls and crevasses. This section is prone to avalanches from big seracs hanging on the shoulder above. Camp 3 will be set up at an altitude of 6, 480meter on the ridge. Passing through crevasses, we climb up to Pumori cliff and then to the summit. There are many mountaineers climbing Pumori, check their technical skills and their feelings as well as experience of climbing Himalayas in Nepal to prepare for 8000 meter peaks in Nepal for the future climbing plan.
Experience Required: All climbers need to have good skills on rock and ice climbing and technically competent. On most parts of the routes there will be fixed rope, however, the climbers should posses skills of climbing through steep rock and hard compact ice. We follow the standard South West ridge route (normal route) to the top, as it is consider the safe route, free from the objective danger such as avalanche and so on. The route we follow begins at Lukla (2,850m.) and the initial days of the trek pass through the legendary Sherpa country up the spectacular high valley of the Khumbu. Most of the route on the actual climbing is fixed with no icefall or glacier to negotiate, and most of it is concentrated on the crest of a ridge. The climb is relatively safe though exposed and sheep and not really a mountain for debutantes. It is easier for those people who like to get summit of Ama Dablam. Climbing Pumori requires a moderate technical climb on ice and snow. The normal route for the climbing is South East Ridge. We have designed the expedition itinerary for those climbers who like to do combined expedition in Nepal.
Spring Season:
Kathmandu Arrival Date: April 01, 2025
Expedition Fixed Departure Date: April 04, 2025
Autumn Season:
Kathmandu Arrival Date: October 01, 2025
Expedition Fixed Departure Date: October 04, 2025
Extra Cost for High Altitude Climbing Sherpa: USD 1700x2 = 3400 for group sharing basis (if required by client)
Note:
Summit Bonus: Camp 6000m. = USD 500 and over 7000m. to summit= USD 400 = 900x2 = 1800 USD extra payable for per climbing Sherpa on the spot.
Hotel/Lodges/Camping
43 Days Trek/Climbing
Food: Included except main meals in Kathmandu
Accommodation: 5 Nights Kathmandu and 42 Nights Lodges/Camping
Recommended Season: Spring, Autumn & Winter
01 April Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport (1,350m.) meet our staff then transfers to Hotel.
02 April Day 02: Kathmandu free.
03 April Day 03: Official work for expedition and briefing at Ministry of Tourism.
04 April Day 04: Fly to Lukla (2,860m.) and trek to Phakding (2,622m.)
05 April Day 05: Phakding - Namche Bazar (3,440.)
06 April Day 06: Namche Bazar rest for Acclimatization.
07 April Day 07: Namche Bazar – Tengboche (3,867m.)
08 April Day 08: Tengboche – Ama Dablam Base Camp (4,600m.)
09 - 23 April Day 09-23: Climbing Period and summit of Mount Ama Dablam (6,812m.)
24 April Day 24: Ama Dablam BC Clean up – Pheriche (4,342m.)
25 April Day 25: Pheriche – Lobuche (4915m.)
26 April Day 26: Lobuche – Pumori Base Camp.
27 April - 09 May Day 27- 40: Climbing Period and summit of Mount Pumori (7145m.)
10 May Day 41: Reserve day. Clean up base camp.
11 May Day 42: Trek down to Lobuche.
12 May Day 43: Lobuche – Tengboche.
13 May Day 44: Tengboche – Namche Bazar.
14 May Day 45: Namche Bazar – Lukla and transfer to Teahouse Lodge.
15 May Day 46: Fly back to Kathmandu then transfer to Hotel.
16 May Day 47: Kathmandu free for D-briefing and rest, farewell dinner at evening.
17 May Day 48: Last minute, transfer to airport for onward journey.
Hotel/Lodges/Camping
43 Days Trek/Climbing
Food: Included except main meals in Kathmandu
Accommodation: 5 Nights Kathmandu and 42 Nights Lodges/Camping
Recommended Season: Spring, Autumn & Winter
01 October Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport (1,350m.) meet our staff then transfers to Hotel.
02 October Day 02: Kathmandu free.
03 October Day 03: Official work for expedition and briefing at Ministry of Tourism.
04 October Day 04: Fly to Lukla (2,860m.) and trek to Phakding (2,622m.)
05 October Day 05: Phakding - Namche Bazar (3,440.)
06 October Day 06: Namche Bazar rest for Acclimatization.
07 October Day 07: Namche Bazar – Tengboche (3,867m.)
08 October Day 08: Tengboche – Ama Dablam Base Camp (4,600m.)
09 - 23 October Day 09-23: Climbing Period for Mount Ama Dablam (6,812m.)
24 October Day 24: Ama Dablam BC Clean up – Pheriche (4,342m.)
25 October Day 25: Pheriche – Lobuche (4915m.)
26 October Day 26: Lobuche – Pumori Base Camp.
27 Oct. - 08 Nov. Day 27- 40: Climbing Period for Mount Pumori (7145m.)
09 November Day 41: Reserve day. Clean up base camp.
10 November Day 42: Trek down to Lobuche.
11 November Day 43: Lobuche – Tengboche.
12 November Day 44: Tengboche – Namche Bazar.
13 November Day 45: Namche Bazar – Lukla and transfer to Teahouse Lodge.
14 November Day 46: Fly back to Kathmandu then transfer to Hotel.
15 November Day 47: Kathmandu free for D-briefing and rest, farewell dinner at evening.
16 November Day 48: Last minute, transfer to airport for onward journey.
Khumbu Himal
Height: Ama Dablam 6,812m. (22,349 ft)) - Pumori 7,145m. (23,494 ft)
Latitude: 27º 51’ 42” N - 28º 00’ 53” N
Longitude: 86º 51’ 50” N - 86º 49’ 41” E
Trip Duration: 48 Days
Normal Ascent Route: Normal route
Grade: Mountaineering
Caravan Route: Lukla-Namche-Pangboche-Ama Dablam BC-Labuche-Pumori BC
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